If rabbits are eating newly planted vegetation, the most effective approach is to combine physical protection with a few deterrents until the plants are established. Young plants are far more vulnerable than mature ones.
1. Individual Plant Cages (Most Effective)
- Surround each plant with ½-inch hardware cloth or welded wire.
- Make cages 18–24 inches tall.
- Anchor them with landscape staples or stakes.
- Leave a few inches of clearance around the plant so rabbits can't reach through.
2. Temporary Fencing
For larger planting areas:
- Use 24–30 inch tall rabbit fencing with openings no larger than 1 inch.
- Bury or pin the bottom 2–4 inches to prevent rabbits from squeezing underneath.
- This works well for newly seeded areas or groups of perennials.
3. Repellents
Commercial repellents can reduce browsing but require reapplication after rain or irrigation.
Common active ingredients include:
- Putrescent egg solids
- Capsaicin (hot pepper)
- Garlic extracts
Rotate products occasionally so rabbits don't become accustomed to them.
4. Plant Extra During Establishment
If you're planting plugs or small perennials, expect some losses.
- Plant a little denser than the final design.
- Replace losses after the first few weeks if necessary.
5. Irrigation Matters
Well-watered plants recover from light browsing more quickly. Avoid overwatering, but don't let new plants become drought stressed while they're also dealing with rabbit damage.
Plants Rabbits Often Leave Alone
While no plant is completely rabbit-proof, these are generally less bunny-preferred in New Mexico:
- Lavender
- Rosemary
- Russian sage
- Yarrow
- Penstemon (once established)
- Four-wing saltbush
- Rabbitbrush
- Sage species
- Desert marigold
For Regenerative Landscapes
During the first growing season, it's often worth protecting only the most valuable plants (trees, shrubs, and specimen perennials). Once these establish and surrounding vegetation fills in, rabbit damage usually becomes much less significant.
For restoration projects or larger native plantings, temporary fencing for the first 6–12 months is usually more economical than replacing repeatedly browsed plants.